Looking for Painting metallics tips - armour?

[ghamilt1]

Evening all. I have Young Miniatutes bust of the Roman Cavalryman on the work bench at the moment and have got the face all painted. I'm ready to start painting the helmet, and I realize I need help. I have an airbrush, but have NEVER used it on a figure (it's a left over from my airplane modelling days). I suppose I'm not opposed to using the airbrush, but would love to hear from the membership as to how they go about achieving realistic metallic finishes on their armoured subjects, especially in larger scales like 1/10 busts. If there's a way to do that without resorting to the spray gun, I'd love to hear about it. So if you have any suggestions, or even a link to a tutorial, please feel free to leave a reply. Thanks in advance.

Glenn

 

[peedee]

Hi Glen.

Please bear in mind all my brush have 'airs !

I only work with acrylics but I treat metallics in the same way as other ordinary paints by highlighting and shading, but in a specific way.

First, 2 thin layers of the basic metallic paint, lets say steel over a black base to give a smooth surface.

I then prepare 2-3 glazes of
black and gloss varnish
navy blue n gv
A separate mix of each.
I stipple these on at random to give shadow areas as required and repeat to increase density of shadows.

This keeps the overall look of polished steek but with highlight and shade.
When satisfied by the process and after it is all dry I finally mix the original base steel with a touch of silver as scratches and other obvious highlights.

Where I want older battle dirty or campaign distressed steel,
I omit the varnish and widen the stippled overpaint to include random specks of at least three different browns and work them together so they all blend,and highlight with just the base steel, and add silver and base for scratches only.

(Treating bronze armour is the same but with complimentary colours)

Here's a couple of examples :
28mm look at the axe

90mm in the ditch of a fortified village in polished armour, if you double click this it should show the correct way up.

Hoping this helps, all the best.

Paul

 

[ghamilt1]

Thanks Paul, this is certainly a step in the right direction. I usually work in "mixed Media", which is my using both acrylics and oils. I'll layer the acrylics much as you have suggested, but then add shadows and some dirt with oils. I just wasn't sure how this approach would work on a large scale. I really like the look of the metallics in your examples, especially the highlights. They look like metal without the metallic flake effect I sometimes get on my efforts.

 

[kagemusha]

Hi Glenn.....this may help/give you some ideas....covers all the bases....mixed media/AB/acrylics/oils etc.

http://www.planetfigure.com/threads/im-back-scale-75-abyssal-warlord.63999/

Ron

 

[ghamilt1]

That's the sort of thing I was looking for, very instructive and informative. What do you think about using printers ink? I know lots of people have used it to great effect, but I never have and was wondering if this is something I should consider.

 

[peedee]

Ref printers inks :

I have considered them but they seem to work best if heat dries like/along with oils.

So I have reluctantly put the idea aside and use acrylic inks instead here and there.

If painting with oils I would encourage their use, I think the two media were awaiting each others arrival!

Paul.

 

[kagemusha]

As a printer for the last 49 years....what are termed as 'printers inks' are as far removed from 'real' printers inks as you can get....
Some people like them...and get good results....for me personally...acrylic metals are far more adaptable in every sense....especially when you want to use mixed media such as oils for shading and effects....
I can only suggest you try them (printers inks) and decide for yourself Glenn

Regards

Ron

 

[kagemusha]

Ref printers inks :

I have considered them but they seem to work best if heat dries like/along with oils.

So I have reluctantly put the idea aside and use acrylic inks instead here and there.

If painting with oils I would encourage their use, I think the two media were awaiting each others arrival!

Paul.

Oils and 'printers inks' have similar properties....both in application and drying....which is what limits their use and application IMHO....

 

[ghamilt1]

I have used acrylic metallics to good effect on smaller scales, but I find my "go-to" brand, Vallejo sometimes results in a sparkle like effect as if the metallic particles are on the surface like glitter. Are there some other brands you guys could recommend?

 

[kagemusha]

Vallejo were my go to metallics....then along came 'Scale 75'....work superbly whether by brush or AB....in particular their 'Metal n Alchemy' gold and steel sets ....not the NMM sets tho

I think the sparkle is the over sized particles/pigment...the 'Air' type are much finer/smoother

 

[peedee]

I find the Vallejo metalics very coarse too.

I am able to access a brand here in Liverpool by a Co. known as 'miniature paints'.
They are by far the smoothest and most opaque paints I have used.
These paints are now sold as mail order only outside Liverpool.
The supplier is Mr R Higgins
'Gamescraft'
Unit 2 Regent works,
Sea View Road.
Bootle.
Liverpool
L20 4DU.
tel: 0151 922 0401

Roger used to have an enormous game store selling everything to do with boardgames from chess and jigsaws to role playing games figures and terrain.
He changed from retail to post only a number of years ago, and is still going. I still buy mine straight off the rack from 'Rennies' famous art supply shop in Bold Street in Liverpool City Centre.

The paints covered a craft, fantasy and military range, all supplied in stout glass jars.
They need a damn good stir and shake before use, and I usually leave the top off for a couple of hours to evaporate some of the excess carrier liquid before first use.
I can't speak highly enough of these paints,.........(Obviously), and if Roger was 20 years younger, I am certain he would be selling a hell of a lot more around the UK.

I shall post their email address tomorrow,

This piccie just shows the packaging.
left to right old gold, chainmail, khaki, black along with two items I have prepped with two coats of base metalic redy for for the varnish and shading stage.


Paul.

 

[valiant]

Ive come to this quite late, but am interested to read some of the effects and suggestions.

Just to add to the mix, I have used Vallejo Model Air metallics applied with a brush over a suitable basecoat and have found them to be great. They certainly have finer particles and dont seem to have the "glitter" effect of the standard ones.

 

[ghamilt1]

OK, here's where I'm at: I have done the scales on the chest armour using Vallejo Bronze over a base coat of ocher and cavalry brown, and so far it looks pretty good. I will try doing some highlights with brass and gold, and add shadows with oil washes. Seeing as I am well into the process, I will have to forgo the Miniature Paints option purely because I am not a patient enough man to wait the few weeks for the paint to arrive from Liverpool. I can however give the Vallejo airbrush paints a try, as they are widely available at some hobby stores here in Edmonton. So I will make a hobby run tomorrow and see what I can find. Any other suggestions? I can always see what the local gaming shops have in stock.

 

[peedee]

I have spoken to my local guy today and Roger told me they are simply relabelled 'Ral Partha Paints' brought in in bulk and repackaged.
So you may find them in the local gamestore in eyedropper bottle format.
Paul.

 

[ghamilt1]

Perfect Paul, I will add them to the list. A lot of the shops were closed today due to the Victoria Day long weekend ( I was not amused) so I'll have to make a few stops this week.

 

[peedee]

I have the same 'problem' with UK bank holiday weekend looming.

I must get all my supplies in by Friday evening to be sure I got everything.

Paul.

 

[brian]

Here is the simplest way to paint metals IMO.After priming apply a couple of coats of Dark Star acrylic silver.I always use a brush.Then make a mix of lamp black oil and a bit of burnt umber.Apply this unthinned mix to the area you've undercoated with the Dark Star undercoat and then quite simply start taking it off.You can use a large brush or kitchen towel or the foam you get in the figure packaging.You can remove as much or as little as you want, depending on the finish you're after on the armour.You can also use a stippling technique.
Let dry for a couple of days and you can then add the shading etc, and feather it in to the armour.Highlights ,you can use Dark Star Baroque acrylics or printers ink.
This method you can achieve all different types of tones on the armour,and if it doesn't look right ,take it off with thinners and start again.It's a great way to experiment with armour without having to strip it each time.It's the only time i use acrylics,and painting armour is my favourite part of a bust or figure.

 

[peedee]

One of the best descriptions of painting technique I've seen for a while Brian.

Paul

 

[OldTaff]

And effective

Alan