More WW2 Germans again.....

[zyclyon]

Hi guys,

here's something I've been messing for about 4 hours.

It all starts by filing away the folds of the DML figure with a diamond file from M-Tools

http://themworkshop.com/mshop/mtools/diamo...mond_files.html

 

[zyclyon]

Next, a sheet of rolled out putty is applied with the aid of a brush moisten with Cellulose thinner. Thinner dries faster than water/saliva, dissolves both the putty and plastic hence increasing the putty's adherence to the plastic surface. No worries of the putty lifting from the plastic when I decide to sand it later .

The putty is worked on in small patches from seam to seam with the aid of an old 0 painting brush. Vaseline/oil was used to prevent the putty from sticking onto the brush as I block in the general form on the trousers.

 

[zyclyon]

A sewing needle (also lightly coated with oil) is used to indicate the tight areas as these are the points of origin for the folds.

A finer brush moisten with oil is again used to "fan" out the bigger folds.

A light brush with a conical diamond blur is finally used to refine the details when the putty sets completely under a 25W blub.

The crotch area is built-up with small patches of freshly rolled out putty.

 

[zyclyon]

It's blended with the area from the previous session with a brush moisten with Cellulose thinner. The thinner also helps to remove any patches of oil that might remain from the previous session and hence preventing the fresh layer putty from lifting when it cures.

A fine brush moisten with oil is used to "paint" the tight creases as another alternative.

It's allowed to set for approximately 1 hour before it's refined with an airbrush needle.

A fine tipped brush moisten with Gunze Sanyo Thinner (which dries much slower) is lightly brushed across the 2hr old putty to smoothen any surface irregularities.

I hope that you will find this useful in the way I work. And as Taesung says, no secrets only hard work!

cheers,

P.S. Thanks for the brushes Jaume

Calvin

 

[Uruk-Hai]

Very useful, educational and inspiring!
Thank you for posting.

Cheers

 

[Jim Patrick]

EXCELLENT Calvin (If I could put more, I would!). Thanks so much for the tips. This helps us "not so putty inclined" GREATLY! As I'm sure it will help those more experienced also. One question. Am I correct to ASS/U/ME that you give the rear of the figure the same treatment, or are you satisfied with the rear?

Thanks again,
Jim Patrick

 

[zyclyon]

Hi Patrick,

as you can see this THE POINT OF NO RETURN......

It's inevitable, everything including the rear will also be remodelled just like the front.

More pictures to come....

Calvin

 

[btavis]

What is celluose thinner? This is a UK term isn't it? Is it like lacquer thinner, acetone, MEK or xylol?

 

[homellop]

Hi Calvin
Hope the ton of papers has been cleared off already
I'm amazed,as I was when you were at home,by your sculpting way.
Things seem so easy when you do it.
I'll try to finish the right arm by myself.
regards
jaume

 

[zyclyon]

Jaume,

I hope that I have induced enough heat to get you warmed up to sculpting. You might be a better figure sculptor than a painter for all we know
Sad to say the paper work is still here to clear.

Bob,

yes, Cellulose thinner is a UK term. I would recommend any thinner/solvents that would help you corrode the plastic. In Singapore we go by the term lacquer thinner too.

Calvin

 

[callum]

Hi Calvin, excellent work as usual. I'd like to know where you got those superfine files from?

keep up the good work.

Regards Callum.

 

[Manfred]

Very interesting approach !

Thanks.

 

[T50]

Calvin,
The folds on the pants look great so far.
Very realistic! Do you work from photos?
Looking forward to see more in-progress
images soon!

Taesung

 

[Dan Morton]

Calvin - Thanks so much for your SBS. The technique you're teaching is really useful and I've tried it with mixed success. The bit about using lacquer thinner to make the putty adhere better is helpful and I'm going to check into the diamond file set. I already have a file set with those sizes and shapes. Do you think the one from M-tools is that much better than normal files?

I really liked the way you showed us how you do folds. That was very helpful! I'd never thought of breaking it down into those steps. I can see that in future when I make folds in clothing I should go much slower and work smaller areas.

You took a left turn and went to Albuquerque on me, however. What do you mean by - "A light brush with a conical diamond blur..."? Can you identify the tool or give a reference or something?

all the best,
Dan

 

[Samuel Pérez]

Hi Calvin, my friend, I hope that the trip on returning to singapur was good and that the evening that we spend in Madrid was entertained for you and your wife.
When you have time, order me the photos that you took in the jordi's shop (113), please.
best regards. :lol:

Samuel.

Ps.: I can't see the photos that you have put up....

 

[Fulix]

No photos... bandwidth limit reached...

Can you put them on-line again?

Cheers!

 

[zyclyon]

Ok guys,

the alternate link and captions.
http://community.webshots.com/user/zyclyon4

http://community.webshots.com/album/87788900lekmnK

Dan, sorry for the bad English. What I meant was to lightly sand the surface with the diamond bit.

Samuel, I'm in the midst of organizing the pictures I took from Spain. They should be on their way soon!

Callum, the files are avaliable from The M Workshop. Check out their website. I get most of my stuff from them.

http://themworkshop.com/

cheers

Calvin

 

[zyclyon]

Here are the pictures once again.

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=12608&img=lah008.jpg[/IMG

[img]http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=12609&img=lah009.jpg

 

[Figure Mad]

I just wish could sculpt like that, those folds are amazing

Dave

 

[Calvin]

Hi,
seeing the pictures it seems that the putty you use is a strong type (what brand?), like the Tamiya, above all reading what you say:

...with Cellulose thinner. Thinner dries faster than water/saliva, dissolves both the putty and plastic hence increasing the putty's adherence to the plastic surface

Is there some reason related to its features or is only for your taste ? (putty like magic sculpt are very soft and can be worked with water).
Also is true that putty like Tamiya, at least for me, are more easy to work when rolling out a sheet (is that?).
Thanks, Luca