Using Modeling Paste?

[Glen]

I've learned the modeling paste can be used as a sculpting medium, so I picked up a jar of Liquitex MP at the local Michael's craft store. This stuff is like runny toothpaste, so I'm not sure how to use it. It supposedly can be carved and sanded and it seems to dry in about 30 minutes or so. It does stick to Aves when dry (but not as well as more Aves).

At what point can you actually work it into something? Does anyone have experience with MP where they can share some hints and tips?

Cheers,

Glen

 

[FigureLover]

I use Mr Surfacer 500 and 1000 which is a type of paste. I use it for filling in of tool marks and air bubbles in resin castings etc as a quick fix to minor blemishes. Let it dry completely (time depends on temperature etc) and just sand it back to the surface or shape. I have also fixed flattened noses on metal kits by building it up over several rough coats and shaping it back with sand paper. The paste is not very good for larger things as its quicker to do it with putty
Ben

 

[gordy]

I've not tried the medium before; I would suppose it's quite frustrating to work with. I'm not saying it isn't possible, but it would drive me mad. I could see it being used for texturing in a layering process.

 

[Einion]

I think certain texturing jobs, e.g. hair stubble, rough fabric texture, are probably the ideal thing to try with this, plus plenty of potential in the groundwork/basing arena (including taking advantage of its tendency to crack if you need to replicate cracked mud).

You'll probably find it sticks better to resin than to white metal, as long as the surface of the casting isn't very smooth. But it's probably safest to use it on top of primer, just as with acrylic paint.

Should also work well for filling pinholes, very fast too since you can use a hairdryer to dry it within minutes.

Einion

 

[Glen]

Thanks everyone. I've been playing with it some. I was hoping I could use it for fine details, but it's a bit too runny until it starts to set up. It also tends to stick to the tool and pull out when you lift the tool.

I haven't had any cracking issues, but I've been keeping the layers about 1/16 - 1/8 inch thick. I also let it dry naturally, so that may be a factor as well. Didn't think about a hairdryer - good idea. More experimentation, I suppose...

Cheers,

Glen

 

[billyturnip]

Glen, I've been toying with the idea for awhile of using this stuff to make backgrounds for flats within a frame, from your experience do you think that might work?

Roger.

 

[theBaron]

What's it made of, that is, is it an epoxy of some kind, or some other material?

Prost!
Brad

 

[Einion]

Thanks everyone. I've been playing with it some. I was hoping I could use it for fine details, but it's a bit too runny until it starts to set up.

You can deliberately thicken it up by pouring a little it into a container and letting it dry out some. The more water you evaporate off the more like clay it'll get.

It also tends to stick to the tool and pull out when you lift the tool.

You could use that - to pull out fine strands, for something like fur or hair texture?

I forgot to mention previously, you could also try using it for paint-on relief, e.g. to give a rounded profile to embroidered heraldry. I've found that hit or miss myself when I've tried it but I wasn't using a readymade commercial product like this, which might perform better than the homemade equivalent.

What's it made of, that is, is it an epoxy of some kind, or some other material?

Basically it's a thick paste of marble dust in an acrylic binder.

Einion

 

[theBaron]

Thanks, Einion! Very interesting, I would never have thought of using something like that.

Prost!
Brad