Painting With Oil Paints

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Hi, Pedro!... (As for myself), yes, you are sort of correct. I have only been painting 'Figures', for 5 years. and did start with the 'Verlinden' method. As this/his, book seemed to be the best and most comprehensive guide that I could find at the time. (You, yourself have knowledge of it)..... However!.. as with all things, methods/techniques, are always open to adaption and improving! as time goes by, and new materials, improved paint, become more available. What I can't ascertain, from your brief comment, is if you think that this method is either, flawed, or is still very much valid! in todays figure painting arena.:confused:..

Regards,

Mark.
 
Carlos,... By adding the linseed oil, ......... isn't that increasing the drying time?, but also increasing the satin/sheen element??... I can understand that method on 'Canvas',.. (Watching my Dad, and his art/sketch skills)... But, canvas is absorbant. it's how to ' Matt down', this wonderful medium. I have looked at! and tried the linseed option, it does become very, slippery, hence! skid... especially whilst trying to paint 90mm and below!:)

Mark
 
Hi Mark!

Yes, for me is a valid method, i like to paint my busts (flesh areas)I think the wet on wet technique from verlinden´s still have so much to offer these days because you can reach with it some easy and fast results.
I didn´t have the book that you mention, can you talk me about it?
Thanks!

Cheers,
Pedro.
 
Hi, Pedro!... The Magazine, is called, ( 'The System'. vol 1, Painting figures.) 1993!.. F. Verlinden. ( Its got the 'Terminator', on part of the cover) It generally deals with 120mm resin figures, but also includes a bust of 'General Patton', and possibly another! 1/10 scale bust, and is pretty much based on the application and blending methods of, 'Oil-Paint', with, I think, an enamel base coat!... This is still available on 'Amazon',... But its a bit expensive, for what it is! (100 pages):)....

Mark
 
Thanks Chris

Mark adding linseed will add to the drying time and glossiness no doubt,but I cook my oils over night so never a problem and also paint over a very matt enamel basecote,combined with the above they dry more eggshell than gloss and I just Dullcote down when finnished,works for me.

Never encountered skidding ... :wtf: :)
 
Hi Mark!(y)

Thanks for the book title, i take a look in library of a freind of mine.

Cheers
 
Hi Carlos, as Mark said the 'skid' I refer to is the feeling of the paint moving on the surface rather than spreading out and adhering. I have to say this topic is bringing out a lot of useful info and I find it great to talk about something familiar whilst learning new tricks.

Ron
 
Although it isn't about the actual painting.
I find this a very good book, and for the price you can't complain.
It has mixes for hair, eyes, lips and loads of different skin tones,
Carl.(y)
 
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Thin coats of paint are the answer Carl, as Ron Clark says keep lifting off with a dry brush constantly until you only have the thinest off a slick left on the model ,I find if you put the paint on an absorbent pallet which takes out the carrier oil that then becomes counter productive as you then have to apply thicker coats as the paint won't spread, and also a point that Enion makes , the undercote has a lot of bearing on the outcome.

What works best for me are humbrols applied with an air brush as they dry total flat ,but if you use humbrol straight from the tin without stirring and mixing the carrier oil you will get the same result ,humbrol matt No 250 will do the trick ,it is markedas dessert sand but is more a flesh pink.

Ron
 
Brad, I have just had a quick look at another thred, about this 'Dorlands wax'. from someone who was interested in 'Tinkering', with this medium!... I have never tried it myself, but as you and I think Einion, advised it seems to give inconsistant results..., and as you said, you really need to know with which colours it works with. Which I find strange, if it works with red why not blue?... So I probably won't go there.:)

Mark.
 
Ron & Ron T. Its interesting to see that you both use the 'Glaze', method, but at different stages.... I may need to go back into my cupboard, to look for another magazine. As I am sure Bill Horan, used this method a lot.:)

Mark.
 
Hi Mark, am preparing Pegasos Gaul Chieftain bust at the moment and thought I might do an SBS of my style of oil painting. Pictures are always more informing than written explanations and at least it will allow others to comment which in turn brings out new ideas for all of us.

Ron
 
Please do!.. Just pulled it up!.. The helmet/shield, looks like fun, and he has a defiant expression. What will you use for the metallics? Humbrol 'Metalcote'. or a secret weapon?

Ps What is an, SBS?

Regards,

Mark
 
I always use Vallejo metals as they have more depth in my opinion. Shaded with oils and pastels then, when dry, a light buffing with a make-up brush. Got "mutant" flu at the mo so can't even pick up a brush cos they are sooo bloody heavy!!!

Ron
 

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