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John, Thanks a lot. I'm not going to makes as many parts as a commercial piece, only in those areas where it may be easier to paint a part of a figure.~Gary
 
Joe, Screw them up? nah never happen. It's gonna be a lot of fun sculpting these with your painting style in mind.~Gary
 
The shoes have been roughed in to the point where work on the hose can begin. I took a small file and worked in where the foot goes into the shoe. After this a bit of fine work was done with an X-acto to finish it off. I will be either carving or filing in a few more fine folds. The only detail remaining on the hose is the ribbon that goes around the leg to keep them up, this will be done last.
 

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Highland bonnet This is an item that is very rarely done correctly. There are some figures still being done of Highlanders and Rangers that depict the bonnet looking like a modern beret. This is not the way they should look. The simplest way to describe a bonnet is that it looks like a "pancake" sitting on the head. Here is an easy way to do them in a few simple steps.

Step 1 Clear the top half of the head of all hair, if it's there. Take a small blob of putty and push it down onto the head, trimming it as you go along until you're left with something like a skullcap.

Excuse the little bits on the face, it residue left by the scotchbrite I used to smooth it out.
 

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Step 2 After this is cured and smoothed out, rough sand or score the top of the head so the additional putty has something to grab onto. After a few attemps I had a ball of putty the right size for the main part of the bonnet. I worked the putty down revealing a dome shape at the very top and flaring out the sides. I then feathered the top part into the cap part so it looks like one piece. After the putty cures a bit a few creases and folds will be worked into it.
 

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Roughed in armature of Highlander number 2 with the arms roughed in. I have also worked in the hose on the right leg. I need to position the head looking down a bit more.
 

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Gary these are lookng great. I'm wondering what you're working in this time around? It doesn't appear to be Sculpy, or Magic-Sculp. Apoxie perhaps?
 
Guys, thanks for the kind words.

John, Thanks I'm almost pleased with them. I've used mostly Aves Apoxie up to this point, but will be probably doing the remainder in Magicsculpt and or A&B. The Aves is great for armatures but for me I'm finding is not as good as the others when doing clothing. If you happen to get water on an edge where there is little material water tendes to break it up and create a bit of a mess. You can choose to wait a bit and let it start to set up but then you are losing some of the working time waiting. I've done more work carving and filing in folds than I care to. I'm feeling more like a carver than a sculptor. I now have to add a bit more to a couple of the legs as they look wrong from some angles.~Gary
 
Kilt Next in line is the kilt which will be a lot of fun, especially getting to do it twice. The initial application of putty consists of a rolled out sheet that is about 50-70% cured. This will mainly serve as a foundation so the real work of making it look like a realistc kilt can begin. The kilt of the 18th century differs from that of today and I hope to be able to (correctly) share it with you.
 

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Close up. The little bits of debris that putty picks up off of your hands and bench no matter how clean drives me crazy.


I'm using magicsculpt and possibly some A&B putty for this part of the figure.
 

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Gary, you certainly are prolific these days! Your SBS's are very informative...you should consider a book!

It seems like you use every type of putty there is. Is there a method to your madness or is it just that you like to try different stuff?
 
Originally posted by garyjd@Jul 6 2004, 02:13 AM
The little bits of debris that putty picks up off of your hands and bench no matter how clean drives me crazy.
Don't it? :angry: If there's one thing I hate it's little bits of black fuzz stuck in a critical spot. Maybe I should take to working in a white lab coat :)

Einion
 

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