....really struggling with the armour, painting the little slats is proving to be very difficult, am I doing something wrong?
Nope: about par for the course I'd say
As you'll have seen from the RA, Japanese armour is extremely complex with lots of fine detail and fiddly bits. Funnily enough this works against you at a large scale as more detail is present (or should be) and hence needs painting
Good work so far but I'll make several suggestions.
Note: so as to not complicate matters I've not used the Japanese terms but this downloadable guide is invaluable (also see last items from Absolon).
https://issuu.com/davethatcher/docs/the_samurai_armour_glossary_2013_v2
(click on images to enlarge them)
- I've not seen the casting but to me the helmet's neckguard looks strange. I can only see the lower row of diagonal lacing but not the longer vertical ones? Your photo from the RA shows this well:
- It also shows the stencilled leather that would normally be on its peak and turnbacks.
These pics (all from Absolon) show the construction (the lacing methods varied but these should give an idea- especially the ones with varying colours which show how each row connected to the next):
- The facemask is OK in red though as I understand it they were more commonly in black (or often russet) with a red lacquered interior (visible around the edges of the mouth). The masks were as much worn to provide a fierce visage and allow the helmet cords to be tightened (hence the various hooks and posts) as anything else (and never in the early periods).
As with many things Japanese, there were several systems of fastening the cords, here are some refs, inc one without a mask (also show other helmet details):
Note how the cords go over the throat guard, not under it your construction seems to show.
(the photos you sometimes see with big dangly bows are most likely mis-interpretations)
- Whilst anachronistic and just for show, the armour has a leather faced front... so you'll have to face up to doing the stencilled leather (see my previous postings or try a search for 'e-gawa'). As I previously said, a representational design may be easier than the strict geometric ones (for which see Bailey's superb step by steps)
Given this, it is likely that the same patterned leather would be used on the other parts of the armour (full, matching suits made a point of this): this is borne out by the stencils being laid out rather like a sewing pattern with sections for each element of the armour.
- Felix has already pointed out the issues with the shoulder guards (reversed sides and shape of upper plate) and I noted the peculiar stepped front skirt/tasset. The reversed sode are easily resolved, the other two would be more difficult.
Regarding painting: a full set of armour (gosoku) and all its parts would be matched in terms of its lacquer and lacing colours and leather patterns (it seems that many museum and collectors sets are in fact made up of mis-matched parts drawn from several armours). So, bear this in mind when working out your colour scheme.
Yes, the lacing is a challenge (it helps to start off with good definition and moulding) but Nap's point of painting the base colour, then using a wash to define it, then using a highlight (dry-brush?) to bring out the individual strands will help.
These are what you're aiming for (first pic from
David Thatcher's site... last one from
here):
Useful ref to parts of the armour (Absolon)... loads more exist in various books and online.
BoL, Neil