NeilW
A Fixture
Luckily with this fig you only have the sleeves to contend with, but the other challenge is the fabric.
As I understand it this could be a fairly heavy silk woven brocades or embroidered, hand painted or stencilled or block printed patterns.
There is a whole rich tradition of colours and patterns (Felix's link above shows some pattern books... which is what reminded me about this aspect).
I'm no expert in this field but from my own research they seem to boil down to:
NB: I've tried to select traditional styles but some are modern interpretations, so use only as a guide (there's loads of refs below- again, treat with caution)
BTW: you said you were going to the Leeds Armoury: if you're local I believe that the Leeds University has a collection of Japanese fabrics. (mainly C19/20th- check out the pattern books and stencils)
Here's a modern stencil showing how the 'seamless' repeat patterns worked(and a lovely one from Leeds showing spiders on their web).
The Japanese aesthetic would often result in quite plain, subdued patterns with just the odd splash of colour or main motif.
Here's an example of a basic pattern being augmented by additional motifs:
As I understand it mons were never used as a pattern (though they might appear as badges on some garments notably jinbaori/surcoats).
The many samurai prints are useful refs but be aware that most are well after the period of this figure and as many are romanticised and/or portray kabuki actors, they represent what one might consider 'status/stage- bling' rather than actuality.
It also helps to know how the under-armour clothing worked: this book helps (again thanks Felix- No 3 on his resf list)
The linings of Felix's jinbaori refs also show patterns.
Indigo seemed to be popular in later times. Otherwise, this is a ref for traditional Japanese colours.
There are tons of refs online (some examples below) ... but be careful of modern motifs creping in some of them (somehow a Hein period Hello Kitty print doesn't ring true). Also, some sites attribute specific meaning to patterns, motifs and colours: I'd take these with a pinch of salt.
https://kirikomade.com/blogs/our-fabrics/japanese-patterns-1
https://kirikomade.com/blogs/our-fabrics/japanese-patterns-2
https://www.patternz.jp/japanese-patterns-traditional-motifs/
https://nunoya.com/epages/ec2949.sf/en_GB/?
https://www.hotelzen.jp/blog/japanese-traditional-patterns/ObjectPath=/Shops/ec2949/Categories/"Japanese Fabrics"/"Geometric & Traditional motifs"
https://www.shutterstock.com/g/LuciaOtero?searchterm=japanese
https://www.pinterest.co.uk/search/pins/?q=Japanese textiles&rs=srs&b_id=BOFM_DQmkBVMAAAAAAAAAACW5m37C0wkGNlTPSBY5lRW2M-i8FLtwpWeTQw7wfbkc5hP-aYg8BK1n9AgLZwVVHg&source_id=rlp_rMszcKAH
https://www.nippon.com/en/japan-data/h00478/traditional-japanese-patterns.html
https://polinacouture.com/en/the-meaning-of-patterns-on-japanese-fabrics/
https://www.vectorstock.com/royalty-free-vectors/japanese-fabric-patterns-vectors
http://www.fabricandart.com/Japanese-Indigo-Fabrics.html
As I understand it this could be a fairly heavy silk woven brocades or embroidered, hand painted or stencilled or block printed patterns.
There is a whole rich tradition of colours and patterns (Felix's link above shows some pattern books... which is what reminded me about this aspect).
I'm no expert in this field but from my own research they seem to boil down to:
- colourful pictorial styles (often cranes, mythical beasts, chrysanthemums etc often combined with abstract elements and sometimes quite scenic... probably best left to gifted painters such as Olga)
- strict geometric patterns, often based on stylisations of objects such as tortoise shells, arrows, fans, waves etc (IMHO damn near impossible to paint- hence my interest in transfers)
- less rigid quite abstract patterns, again often stylized objects (in fact they are repeat pattern stencils but their shapes belies this so easier to get away with).
- basic checks, hatches, dogtooths, florals etc (seemed popular in later periods and of course for the poorer bods)
NB: I've tried to select traditional styles but some are modern interpretations, so use only as a guide (there's loads of refs below- again, treat with caution)
BTW: you said you were going to the Leeds Armoury: if you're local I believe that the Leeds University has a collection of Japanese fabrics. (mainly C19/20th- check out the pattern books and stencils)
Here's a modern stencil showing how the 'seamless' repeat patterns worked(and a lovely one from Leeds showing spiders on their web).
The Japanese aesthetic would often result in quite plain, subdued patterns with just the odd splash of colour or main motif.
Here's an example of a basic pattern being augmented by additional motifs:
As I understand it mons were never used as a pattern (though they might appear as badges on some garments notably jinbaori/surcoats).
The many samurai prints are useful refs but be aware that most are well after the period of this figure and as many are romanticised and/or portray kabuki actors, they represent what one might consider 'status/stage- bling' rather than actuality.
It also helps to know how the under-armour clothing worked: this book helps (again thanks Felix- No 3 on his resf list)
The linings of Felix's jinbaori refs also show patterns.
Indigo seemed to be popular in later times. Otherwise, this is a ref for traditional Japanese colours.
There are tons of refs online (some examples below) ... but be careful of modern motifs creping in some of them (somehow a Hein period Hello Kitty print doesn't ring true). Also, some sites attribute specific meaning to patterns, motifs and colours: I'd take these with a pinch of salt.
https://kirikomade.com/blogs/our-fabrics/japanese-patterns-1
https://kirikomade.com/blogs/our-fabrics/japanese-patterns-2
https://www.patternz.jp/japanese-patterns-traditional-motifs/
https://nunoya.com/epages/ec2949.sf/en_GB/?
https://www.hotelzen.jp/blog/japanese-traditional-patterns/ObjectPath=/Shops/ec2949/Categories/"Japanese Fabrics"/"Geometric & Traditional motifs"
https://www.shutterstock.com/g/LuciaOtero?searchterm=japanese
https://www.pinterest.co.uk/search/pins/?q=Japanese textiles&rs=srs&b_id=BOFM_DQmkBVMAAAAAAAAAACW5m37C0wkGNlTPSBY5lRW2M-i8FLtwpWeTQw7wfbkc5hP-aYg8BK1n9AgLZwVVHg&source_id=rlp_rMszcKAH
https://www.nippon.com/en/japan-data/h00478/traditional-japanese-patterns.html
https://polinacouture.com/en/the-meaning-of-patterns-on-japanese-fabrics/
https://www.vectorstock.com/royalty-free-vectors/japanese-fabric-patterns-vectors
http://www.fabricandart.com/Japanese-Indigo-Fabrics.html