WIP Critique Westphalian Chevaeu Ledger Lancier der Garde 1812

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Cheers gents, I had that moment of despair when I first started laying in the colours, especially thanks to the boots, but as usual it all started falling in place. The green is primarily SC75 Deep Green but for the initial blocking in I added some Vallejo Luftwaffe Camouflage Green to make it a little darker and less vibrant.

Cheers Simon
 
Good start Simon, I am sure you will get the face tweaked to your satisfaction. There's a lot of uniform and helmet on this one, so I would get those largely done before returning to the face as they will impact what you need to do with it.
 
NigelR said:
Good start Simon, I am sure you will get the face tweaked to your satisfaction. There's a lot of uniform and helmet on this one, so I would get those largely done before returning to the face as they will impact what you need to do with it.
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Many thanks Nigel and sage advice concerning the face, I tried using the AK Gen3 flesh set, I like the paint but just using those colours would take a lot of practice!

Cheers Simon
 
Wow, I've missed a lot of the progress on this. Another great figure.
My only thought although you've started painting, is the the left elbow, needs a little more shaping.

Malc
 
MalcC said:
Wow, I've missed a lot of the progress on this. Another great figure.
My only thought although you've started painting, is the the left elbow, needs a little more shaping.

Malc
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Cheers Malc, yes I see where you mean, his upper half is only blocked in colour so I'll consider a fix.

Cheers Simon
 
I took Malc up on the elbow issue and though I heartily dislike adding putty to partially painted figures it needed to be done.

I have also broken with my usual rule of metallics last and painted the braid on the boots and trousers. I used three shades of gold coloured paint, all Dark Star, Royal Gold and Braid Gold as base tones and Brass as a highlight.

Shade was Citadel Rhinox Hide and Citadel Seraphim Sepia ink.

All paints even the metallics were lightly thinned with AK Ultra Matt as I went along. This meant that a couple of coats of metallics were needed, this also had the added advantage of not having to wash the brush quite as often as un-thinned painted would have necessitated.

Everything was then given a few coats of AK Ultra Matt, then highlights were redone with the Brass before this too was matted down.

Personally I prefer my metallics to be matt, the metallic pigment is still highly reflective, but it looks more in scale being matt. Even modern gold lace isn't shiny, bright yes but not shiny, I had enough of it on my mess dress jacket and veste!

20250103_150412.jpg20250103_150349.jpg20250103_150412.jpg20250103_150421.jpg

Remember these images are larger than the actual figure even on your phone, even as thumbnails.

Cheers Simon
 
Briggsy said:
...this also had the added advantage of not having to wash the brush quite as often as un-thinned painted would have necessitated...
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That comment made me curious, Simon-do you use paints without thinning, generally? I don't mean to imply there's a right way and wrong way, or only one way, of course. We use the techniques that work for us. I just tend to thin as a matter of course, whether I'm using water-based acrylics, which I put on a wet palette, or using enamels, or Tamiya's X/XF acrylics, which I thin with a little reservoir of appropriate thinner. I arrived at my method with some trial-and-error, and then practice, and it works best for me. I'm always curious to learn what everyone else does.
Prost!
Brad
 
theBaron said:
That comment made me curious, Simon-do you use paints without thinning, generally? I don't mean to imply there's a right way and wrong way, or only one way, of course. We use the techniques that work for us. I just tend to thin as a matter of course, whether I'm using water-based acrylics, which I put on a wet palette, or using enamels, or Tamiya's X/XF acrylics, which I thin with a little reservoir of appropriate thinner. I arrived at my method with some trial-and-error, and then practice, and it works best for me. I'm always curious to learn what everyone else does.
Prost!
Brad
Click to expand...
Sorry for the confusion, generally metallic paints work best unthinned due to the size of the pigment particles. I find that painting with metallics does cause a build up of semi dried paint on the brush that needs washing off frequently.

All other paint I definitely do thin, though not with water. I now use AK Ultra Matt Varnish to thin the paints and find this will make even Citadel or Vellajo Game paints come out matt. I guess some water gets into the mix though as like you I use a wet palette.

Hope this clears things up mate.

Cheers Simon
 
David Spencer said:
A nice job.
The metallic braid is a challenge (i.e. pain in the arse). But matt varnish is a great idea.
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Cheers, yes it is a pain in the arse but has to be done. I gave up.on NMM a while ago now, just isn't the best on anything bigger that 28 to 32mm figures, well not when painted by me anyway. So I'm experimenting to see what the best way to use metallics is.

I did this as a practice piece for my current Cuirassier project, mixing normal colour paint with the metallics.

20240807_155121.jpg20240807_155139.jpg20240807_155153.jpg

Not sure if it works as well as I wanted but to my mind is better than just basic metallic paint. Your thoughts would be appreciated, even if you only need to tell me I'm being a sick!

Cheers Simon
 
That all seems reasonable. Metallic paint is a lot better now (Vallejo). Dull as possible (washes & matt varnish) seems sensible.
I don't see the point of "non-metallic metal", when decent paint is finally on the market. But it can be challenging.
 

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