WIP 1/16 "Tiger In Wait" 321 .SS.Pz.Abt.101 Normandy 1944

[Dr Force]

Dan, thanks for your help, that dio is inspirational, you do not get better than that a true great, which has given me some idea's.

Steve, I appreciate your support, the Church is the biggest challenge/threat, creating realistic brickwork, rubble and groundwork is the difference between stunning and good.

I hope to achieve the former so there is an awful lot of studying, planning, photographing, sketching, needed before I start building!!

Good fun though mate!!

Dave

 

[bydand]

David,

go to the Towers hospital (if it's stll there) it has a fantastic hammered roof in the back office, where the files were, I usd to run security there.

Craig

 

[Dr Force]

Just still at concept stage for the building!

The walls will eventualy be 6mm ply and then covered using the cork method so it is more rigid, this styrofoam stuff is too weak for a model this size IMO so I'm using that to get a "feel"

I am at a real crossroads, having played about with different types of roof structure it just does not look right, almost too busy if that makes sense and I think my original concept of having the odd beam left, rather than a complex construction, suits the size better!!

To give the idea of sheer size it would look wrong to have a church the actual width of a tank which is why the centre of the gable end finishes beyond the model (which poses another problem with the roof structure)

Maybe I could just have the parts of the roof that fix to the side wall left hanging???

Any help idea's appreciated

 

[housecarl]

How about just putting the corbels on the walls Dave? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corbel That would just give the impression of a wooden roof.
Carl.

 

[Ron Tamburrini]

Dave

Regarding the masonry walling churches generally had high quality stonework'
IE Ashlar dressed quoins at door and window surrounds with square snecked
random walling between, generally rough hewn, you could do a corbel or two
with broken beams to suggest roof structure but bear in mind church roofs
generally are very high compared to domestic buildings, you could also leave indents where a mid floor may have been with the odd broken joist sticking out.

Have a look at" tradstocks"website and there portfolio of stonework it may give you some ideas.

What are you using for the stained glass effects.

Looking forward to your progression.

 

[Ron Tamburrini]

Dave
A quick PS
Watch the thickness of the walling,going to be at least 400mm or more.

 

[kagemusha]

Hi Dave, not sure if these will help but you may find something of use.

Cheers

Ron

 

[Dr Force]

Carl, Ronald & Ron thank you for your input, some very good idea's there.

Ron, great pictures and has given me some great food for thought, I appreciate your continued efforts and support.

I have settled on a new stone pattern which I hve drawn on as a guide for the cork, I think the randomness of stone looks better than brick. It's also easier for research because brick churches of an age are more difficult to get good detail.

I am now researching the internal structure of this type of church so I can add some raised patterns as a moulding around the top and also add a broken statue on the side wall, with any other detail to give the inside some dimension:-

 

[kagemusha]

Hi Dave, glad pics were of use mate. How are you doing the stonework? Are you cutting the stones from cork tiles or am I missing your aim. I know you said polystyrene is not strong enough on its own but, have you thought of sticking a poly tile to your ply backing. Styrene being very easy to carve/weather etc. Just a thought to add to the mix.

Cheers

Ron

 

[kagemusha]

A few more shots for your album !

 

[Dr Force]

Hi Ron

Great pics mate, many thanks.

I have 6mm thick (high density) cork mats. I will then cut each individual stone to suit and fill the mortar lines with polyfilla.

I thought about the stryrene but the cork is much more rigid and I can carve out small bits for texture.

Cheers
Dave

 

[kagemusha]

Respect mate. Admire your commitment, and patience. You could use superglue and salt for texture in this scale. Just remember to seal it with aero and not brush, for obvious reasons. Look forward to new update pics.

Cheers

Ron

 

[Ron Tamburrini]

IT is coming on ,here is a thought .

the stone coursing will look better if you jump the coursing every 1200 mm in length,in scale off course,so you don' show a continuous horizontal bed,step the coursing height next to your largest stone by 75 mm in scale , rule of thumb no horizontal bed longer than 1200mm give or take could stretch to 1500mm, no continuos vertical joint more than 300mm, this would really make a difference to the eye,also watch the amount of small pieces of stone you have next to the window,check my website nevis landscaping.co .uk
you will see a farmhouse in stone ,note the continuous horizontal bed every 600mm in
height, just another option but popular for the era

 

[Dr Force]

Hi Ronald

superb website mate, some quality craftmanship going on there.

I see what you mean with the farmhouse it breaks it up nicely, however the pics I have show it roughly as I have it, although I could quite easily change it to accomodate.

The window will have those sharp stones I just got carried away with the pen lol. I have started putting some of the cork on and it looks pretty good it's just a decision to stick or go as you suggest.

Thanks for your help.

Dave

 

[Dr Force]

Hi

I have started the cork construction with a less uniformal pattern as suggested by Ronald, which is easier on the eye, rather than straight lines everywhere.

The edges of the cork is a bit too sharp at the moment but when it is all stuck down I will soften them to give a more stone like appearance.

Also, Chippy has made me a stunning base and I cannot recommend him highly enough, very helpful and clearly a craftsman.

The window needs to be removed so it sits in the hole, once all the basics are done I can add the intricate stone detail. I have also decided to cover the window in 3mm cork to make it look like stone rather than wood.

Cheers
Dave

 

[housecarl]

A work of this magnitude needds a decent base, and Chippy has come up with that.
The stonework looks excellent Dave.
Carl.

 

[kagemusha]

Hi Dave, looking good mate. Stonework looks tedious, but worth it. That base is quality. Really beginning to gel now. I like your use of cork for the stonework and, if I may suggest, you can get great surface weathering by using a 'wire' brush. Have used this many times, along with superglue and salt, and it gives great surface texture for the weathering process. Really enjoying this whole project.

Cheers

Ron

 

[Steve Ski]

Youza Baby!

You're definitely a seasoned hand at this Dave, looks like this baby is on track for an awesome outcome. I really like the stone work, time consuming, but certainly gonna be well worth it in the end.

The brick layout looks great and I like the window frame too. Your buddy made a great base, accents the plan nicely. Looking forward to the truss and beam work, when you get to it. This is an exciting built, makes me want to put away the log splitter and get back in the bunker, lol.:lol: Ya, when the snow flies I will be there.:thumb down:

Standing by for more, Ski.

 

[sam b]

Hi David, I’ve not posted much lately but just so you know I’m still following and enjoying the progress .
Sam B

 

[Dr Force]

Sam,Steve, Ron & Carl, thank you for your encouragement.

Ron, good idea with the weathering methods, I have found scraping a no 11 blade across the top gives a nice rough stone effect and gives a tad more control, but if will try the wire brush.

Steve, the cork methos is very time consuming but gives the best overall effect IMO so well worth it. I really cannot wait to finish the main brickwork so i can add all those little interior details.

I have uploaded another pic to give you an idea of the scale. I have placed a 1/16 figure against it so you get a feell for the size and height of this church.

Cheers
Dave