WIP 1/16 "Tiger In Wait" 321 .SS.Pz.Abt.101 Normandy 1944

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Hi Dave,

Looks like you bought the Asiatam tracks, and very nice they are too!

I think you're gonna have fun with a Normandy dio. '321' of the ss101 is a great idea.

If you want to soak up a bit of the history then might iI suggest these volumes from Patrick Agte...only 18 squid for the two.

Mid -production Tigers in Schwere 101 you have..

305 Hanno Rausch
304 Heinrich Ritter
311 KC holder Alfred Gunther
312 Peter Kisters
313 Schopper
314 Otto Blase
321 Max Gorgens
322 Heimo Traue
323 Herman Barkhausen
324 Jurgen Merker
 

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331 Thomas Amselgruber
332 Albert Leinecke
333 Waldemar Warnecke
334 Rolf von Westernhagen (younger brother of the CO)

Also 3 Zug of 1 Komp.
131 Walter Hahn (as Jason has painted his)
132 Werner wendt
133 Fritz Zahner
134 helmut Dannleitner
 

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Here is Max Gorgens in '321'

Patrick Agte has a brief summary of Max's service..

born 7/11/14 Hamborn, joined 1 komp. LSSAH in 1934. With 2 Komp in Poland & low countries. Wounded at Dunkirk, transfered to 'Fuhrer Escort Detatchment'. Became Sepp Dietrich's driver in 1943, bumped into Heinz von Westernhagen....talked into joining schwere 101...
 

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Hi Dave,
Here's some inspiration I hope. This is my "cat chaser" WSN Tiger I that I mentioned previously. I added a zimmerit coat, a quick repaint, and started detailing it before I lost interest. I wanted to paint it quickly like I thought they would in the field, trying to get it done before an air attack interrupted them. I'm not sure its what I want, so perhaps one day it goes back in the paint barn. I think I spaced the number too far apart as well (hand painted). I still have all the tools and stuff in a box somewhere. I was scratch building the engine screens (as you can see) when I stopped. The screens on the real thing were actually 2 layers, a wide pattern outer screen, with a finer screen underneath. I wanted to see if I could replicate that using different size mesh.It was coming along OK when I lost interest. Its a basic RC beast, the turret turns, the gun recoils and makes a sound, it has an engine sound, and it even moves at a scale speed instead of like a race car. But it came with only the ability to use AA batteries, so there are about 8-10 in the hull, instead of one rechargeable.

RCTiger.jpg


RCTiger2.jpg



Cheers
Jason
 
Hi all

I was away all yesterday so sorry for the late replys.

Craig, a superb link you have provided with some excellent tips etc, so thank you.

Jon, love the historical stuff and very important to me as my long term aim is to open a website dedicated to my models with an educational bit of background to them. This stuff you are feeding me is right ip my street.

It's also giving me a whole hero of confidence to bomb on now knowing each step is a replica of the real thing so here goes!!!!

Jay, I can't understand why you have not finished that Tiger, it looks wonderful
And given your imagination, I could see you achieving something special in a Diorama!!

I am back on the bench today so should get some more work done and will post some more pics. All my early attention is on the Tiger, it's the focal point so has to have a decent amount of detail.

I was Reading through my Osprey book yesterday and also noticed the finer mesh under the original grill so duly noted.

Thanks for all your amazing help guys it really is making a huge difference.

Cheers
Dave
 
Hi Dave,
Well, I guess my best advice and reason for not working on my Tiger is "don't get too caught up in the details, cause you can always find something else about it that needs fixed or made more accurate". The screens for example. I researched them, tried to find out how the screening was attached to the frames (still not sure, I assume tack welded to the underside), how the frames attached to the hull (still not sure, there are no visible screws or bolts, and I have read they might be wired to the grates underneath or again, tack welded, but I couldn't just GLUE them on, could I???), found out about the double mesh and worked to find suitable material, the list goes on. By then my modeling ADD had kicked in, I lost interest and I moved on to something else. Theres so much that CAN be done to it, you have to ask yourself how much WILL you do to it. You seem to have a much better attention span than I, so it may not be an issue.
 
Hi

Some good progress this afternoon with the removal of certain items.

1) Revolver port was not present on the 321 I am modelling so removed.
2) Early Cupola removed
3)Extractor Fan cover removed from rear of Turret & filled
4)Side straps of Box on the rear of turret removed.
5)Taken out poor moulded Ball mount (will get a new one ordered with MG)
6) Removal of badly molded Front exhaust vent (will replace with a aluminium milled piece)

The pics show where we are and I am not far off the blank canvas I wanted. I have temporarily put on the new additions to the Turret.

I have marked in red the area's I need to lower as both the Cupola & Vent cover are too high for the 321 so a bit of fiddling to do as well as add some weld seems.

At the rear of the lower hull I have marked in red a square which is where my scratch built air intake cover will sit.
 

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Hi Dave,
Well, I guess my best advice and reason for not working on my Tiger is "don't get too caught up in the details, cause you can always find something else about it that needs fixed or made more accurate". The screens for example. I researched them, tried to find out how the screening was attached to the frames (still not sure, I assume tack welded to the underside), how the frames attached to the hull (still not sure, there are no visible screws or bolts, and I have read they might be wired to the grates underneath or again, tack welded, but I couldn't just GLUE them on, could I???), found out about the double mesh and worked to find suitable material, the list goes on. By then my modeling ADD had kicked in, I lost interest and I moved on to something else. Theres so much that CAN be done to it, you have to ask yourself how much WILL you do to it. You seem to have a much better attention span than I, so it may not be an issue.

Hi Jay

You have hit the nail on the head.

How far do you go to be satisfied you are there or there abouts?? How much detail will the naked eye pay attention to if youy are not competing??

This may be my first effort at entering a competition so I want it to be near as I can to the full size!!

As for attention span, well it helps when you have helpful people like you and Jon and anyone else who spur you to get it right.

It's a lovely piece Jay and a darn shame you have put it in the tomorrow box.

Thanks
Dave
 
Looking good Dave. I think it's the mater of finding a balance on what is accuracy, and what is obsession. I know they're out there, but it would take a Tiger aficionado to spot every little variant.
But I know you want it right,
Carl.
 
Hi Dave,
Ya never know, yours might inspire me!
I will just continue to throw stuff out there that you can use or ignore as you see fit. Its just things I have run across modeling some Tigers kits that may be useful.

I see the new cupola has one of my pet peeves as far as how companies have portrayed it in many kits. They mold (or in this case, cast )it like those are the periscopes sticking up around the top, and it just needs some clear "glass" added to make them into periscopes. Those are periscope guards that are welded to the cupola, with a weld bead around them. The cupola, before the guards are added, had slots in it just large enough for the periscope to protrude from, not that big empty hole. The periscope guards are welded on over top of these. When the periscope is inserted from inside, its an exact fit with no gap around it. On my Tamiya King Tiger (yeah, I have one of those as well) I cut off all the guards, filled in the holes just leaving a slot large enough for the periscopes, then reattached the guards and added the weld bead around them. With the metal one you have, you will need to do it like I did on the Verlinden Tiger I (yep, that one too) and the RC Tiger. I cut pieces just large enough to slide inside the guards and fill the hole, leaving the slot for the periscope. Once they were glued in place, I slathered some putty on them and sanded them with a narrow piece of sanding stick. Its a little tougher with the guard still in place, but careful application of glue and putty helps a lot. As they say, a picture is worth a lot of words

titel-003-komp-800x531.jpg


My Verlinden Tiger cupola

cupola.jpg


Some crazy good stuff here, in 1/6th scale I believe
http://www.armortek.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1904&sid=1fde4d102b65e54a88e6dacfc435c1e5
 
Hi Jay

Thanks for the info.

This is where I may draw the line and simply add the weld seems on the cupola, rather than take it apart, but I get what you mean (nice finish by the way)

That 1/6th thread is superb for reference so thanks alot for sgaring.

Carl, you are right, fun or obsession?? it's got to be fun or there is no point so you know what side of the fence I sit.

Cheers
Dave
 
Hi All

Made some appropriate amendments to the Turret.

Removing the original Cupola was a nightmare but after about 1 hour of patience with the dremel and wet & dry sand paper I got it totally removed.

The pics also show the amendments I had to make to the ventilator which was too high and had only 4 cut outs when 6 are required so i took apart and gave it the once over. I have also marked in red where the six tabs will be placed for a waterproof cap)

The church window arrived today and it's an impressive bit of work so very pleased. I will construct my own stained glass.

Tomorrow I will remove the lids from the box that is attached to the turret and scratch build new ones from thin copper sheeting.

Pics:-
 

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Started work on the rear box on the back of the turret.

I wanted to give the impression they actually open rather than form part of the mold.

Very fiddly and has taken around 4 hours to complete only half of it!!!! It's all made out of copper and I am in the throws of finishing the remains of the catches that fix to the box which takes a huge amount of patience.
 

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Thanks alot fella's, appreciate your comments and interest.

I have finished 2 of the box lid catches this morning as per below.The hinges etc will have small weld seems on them once I get down to the real fine stuff and I have to also do the plates that accept the catches that fix to the box.

I thought I would also try and give you an idea of how small they are and how fiddly it is to get right.
 

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