Completed 1/9 BMW R75 & Crew Ardennes 1944

[Briggsy]

That's going to look pretty awesome, really lovr this thread you are doing.

Cheers Simon

 

[Steve Ski]

That will most definitely work out just fine, Dave!

 

[marco14]

wow,man how beautiful is this already,so so big and very nice figures,and like I see a lot to paint, great done

Mario

 

[Dr Force]

Melted/frozen snow test card…….Ill be adding some subtle tones to my proper groundwork and there will be heavier areas thinking about the science that snow at ground level melts from the top down. I’ll also blend in some mud tones to some of the edges, but overall pretty good I think.

 

[Briggsy]

Yep that looks about right, what did you use for the snow?

Cheers Simon

 

[MalcC]

I agree with Simon, looks about right.

Malc

 

[NigelR]

This is coming along verrrry nicely! Snow looks pretty good to me.

 

[Dr Force]

Thanks all

Im using AK Interactive snow products……still experimenting at the moment but I think it’s a case of building up layers as it shrinks slightly.

What I’m leaning. Towards is the less is more philosophy……I want this to simulate cold/damp/frozen environments not snow covered.

In my opinion giving the impression of this is better than actually covering everything (if that makes sense?) sometimes in scale, I see way too much covering everything which then loses the effect and detail.

 

[Briggsy]

Thanks all

Im using AK Interactive snow products……still experimenting at the moment but I think it’s a case of building up layers as it shrinks slightly.

What I’m leaning. Towards is the less is more philosophy……I want this to simulate cold/damp/frozen environments not snow covered.

In my opinion giving the impression of this is better than actually covering everything (if that makes sense?) sometimes in scale, I see way too much covering everything which then loses the effect and detail.

I understand re the snow, last time I did a diorama with snow was deep in the Russian winter so needed loads of the stuff. Ended up building the bulk with white glue and bicarbonate of soda, then topping off with branded products, not sure which now but it looked OK. I'm keen to see how you do this though, always looking for new skills!

Cheers Simon

 

[Steve Ski]

I'm late on the reply, Dave, but the mud and ice sounds/looks very good, Ruck On!

 

[Dr Force]

Ok I think I’m pretty much done with the groundwork…….im at that dangerous point of “just keep dabbing” I think it’s got a good balance for a late autumn/winter scene now and with the bike in place, it brings it nicely together.

I used AK Snow sprinkles watered down in places and added the odd the touch of micro balloons at the very peaks of the melting snow. It took two good layers to get some height but it drys super solid.

Im going to spray a little white from the AB from a distance of about 6 inches horizontally so the tiny droplets fall to make it feel a tad colder.

 

[Merryweather]

Certainly looks cold to me!

 

[Briggsy]

Yes the very image of nasty crusty patches of icy snow, a light frost on that from the airbrush will be brilliant.

Cheers Simon

 

[WarhammerAdjacent]

This is looking ace, I'm sorry I haven't spotted it before. I'm trying to improve my groundwork and like your approach. Have you repainted the static grass or is that the colour it came in? It's an area I really struggle with.

 

[Dr Force]

This is looking ace, I'm sorry I haven't spotted it before. I'm trying to improve my groundwork and like your approach. Have you repainted the static grass or is that the colour it came in? It's an area I really struggle with.

Hi Stefan

Thank you for your interest and welcome to the build.

I always tone down the static grass for autumn and winter to depict a wetter and more dirty environment. Less so for spring and not much at all for summer groundwork. By airbrushing or dry brushing a muted colour it makes it more realistic. Scale grass is indeed synthetic and straight from the pack sometimes looks synthetic so you need to blend it in to your environment.

I also break it up with tweezers so it’s more inconsistent as most field grasses are.

Fo some 2 inch test cards for each season before hitting your main work, they can be quite good fun and great practice for effect.
Dave

 

[WarhammerAdjacent]

Thanks, are you using tufts or loose grass. I find that when I airbrush the grass I really struggle to get a light enough shade on the grass without leaving a layer of paint on the groundwork that I can't clear up. I wonder if drybrushing will work better.

 

[Briggsy]

Thanks, are you using tufts or loose grass. I find that when I airbrush the grass I really struggle to get a light enough shade on the grass without leaving a layer of paint on the groundwork that I can't clear up. I wonder if drybrushing will work better.

If I may just jump in briefly, I dry brush the stuff, tedious but it works OK for me.

Cheers Simon

 

[Dr Force]

Thanks, are you using tufts or loose grass. I find that when I airbrush the grass I really struggle to get a light enough shade on the grass without leaving a layer of paint on the groundwork that I can't clear up. I wonder if drybrushing will work better.

I use tuffs, split into 4 or clumped together.
Im with Simon on this, I tend to tone down with dry brush as it gives more control but takes much longer. To avoid overspray on groundwork for vegetation, spray horizontally across the tops rather than directly.

 

[WarhammerAdjacent]

I use tuffs, split into 4 or clumped together.
Im with Simon on this, I tend to tone down with dry brush as it gives more control but takes much longer. To avoid overspray on groundwork for vegetation, spray horizontally across the tops rather than directly.

Thanks, I’ll give the dry brush a go. I’ve tried all sorts of angles with the airbrush but can’t quite get it to work the way I want

 

[Dr Force]

Thanks, I’ll give the dry brush a go. I’ve tried all sorts of angles with the airbrush but can’t quite get it to work the way I want

Thin paint about 18 psi